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Vintage 70s Fender Stratocaster ???
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I know there are a million threads on this but I haven’t found anything definitive on the web for CTS date codes. Could someone possibly point.
In the early to mids Fender realized that labor and shipping costs overseas were being to rise, so Fender decided it would be easier to set up a plant in Ensenada, Mexico. Fender Mexico was established May 5, Fender started producing guitars in its , sq. Ensenada plant in Due to production times and shipping dates, there is an overlap between each years guitars.
That is why each number has two years of production. So MN was a Mexican Fender guitar built in So everything was pretty simple up to this point, right? Well, then comes
How old is my vintage amplifier?
Copyright , 20th Century Guitar Magazine. The strange and mysterious neck codes found on Fenders from — 80 have been all but ignored by the vintage and collectible guitar community. Perhaps this is due to the fact that s Fenders have, until recently, been all but ignored by the vintage and collectible guitar community. Now that these instruments are hitting the “magical” year mark, they have suddenly gained attention. In , CBS-Fender began to implement a new type of neck stamp in place of the usual date stamp consisting of model code, month, year, neck width e.
The new code consisted of 6, 7 or 8 digits and was usually stamped in green ink.
Website with info on how to date a late ‘s Fender Stratocaster. Some might go by the pot codes, but those could have been stock a year or more old by the.
There are several ways to determine when a Fender amp was produced. First use the cosmetic features to get a range of possible years. Next, if applicable look for the date code on the tube chart. Remember, many components could have been changed over the years, speakers blow, caps dry out, transformers melt down, and pots wear out. Here is a cool link to a Vintage Fender Amp price history chart that tracks sales data for specific amp models by the month. Expanded Manufacturer Code Chart EIA Source-Date Codes: Electronic components such as transformers, potentiometers, speakers, and some capacitors are often stampted with a date code indicating who manufactured them and when.
Remember, your amp is newer than the newest component. So if you find pots from late 68 and transformers from early 69 you can be pretty sure your amp is a Check out this Google search for more resources. Circuit Code: In Fender stoped using model numbers to identify schematics and began using the model name and an assigned circuit number. These circuit numbers which are located on the tube chart can be usefull for getting a rough date on an amp.
Fender often used the same circuit for many years so this is not a very accurate method for amp dating. The code is simple, the first two letters are the revision, where AA is the first revision, AB is the second, etc.
Pickups & Electronic
So, you can’t afford that ’54 Strat, or that ’64, or even that ’74 for that matter. Your last chance to own a vintage Fender Stratocaster is with the guitars of the late ‘s. You spot a ’79 in a local shop, or online, but how can you be certain it is a ’79? Some dealers simply go by the serial number, which you will discover can be far from accurate.
Some might go by the pot codes, but those could have been stock a year or more old by the time they were put into the newly finished guitar. Or perhaps the guitar was even assembled by various parts picked up over the years and is being passed off as “All original”.
The original Jazz Bass had two stacked knob pots with volume and tone control for each pickup. Original instruments with this stacked configuration are highly.
Originally released in the mid 50s the Fender Stratocaster is very likely the most popular solid body guitar ever built. The Stratocaster was originally designed in There is one known Stratocaster prototype and there were others built that are no longer known to exist. Leo Fender, the founder of Fender Musical Instruments, was known to re-use parts wherever he could. So, those early prototypes were likely disassembled and the parts used on other guitars.
In very early there were models of the Stratocaster being released. They were usually taken around with a traveling salesman and would be used to show off the new guitar. The salesman would usually sell the guitars off as they wrapped up their trips. The first guitars or so were basically handmade prototypes that were made early in Estimates say that occurred from January — March These models had a serial number stamped into the back tremolo cover.
1959 Orig 2 Les Paul Gibson Pots 33rd Week 1959 Date 500K
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If your amp dosen’t have a date code, flip the amp upside-down and check the speakers blow, caps dry out, transformers melt down, and pots wear out. Here is a cool link to a Vintage Fender Amp price history chart that tracks sales data for.
Wiring colors in are usually yellow and blue, or white and black. Black bobbins pickups often had no date if they did it was pencil hand written. Nice missmatch of light grey and purple-ish bottom, from a mustang model. Still three black bobbins, yellow and blue wire. CTS pots. Very rare set of pots, with the code usually seen on telecasters and P.
Basses this seems to happen only in ? The orange cap with the yellow plastic would change later in the same year to a green cap made in japan! Pots are CTS dated , they will last until Green cap with no isolation and a different switch 3 ways but not CTRL will appear occasionally across and early Rare stamped very late pickups. Pickups will always have a date stamp from now on.
Wiring colors are a mix of blue, white, green and yellow. Usually red and green, or green and yellow.
Mexican Fender Serial Numbers
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Around this time Fender (CBS) bought a large lot of potentiometers they’re date coded ’67 IIRC, and this messes up pot-date-coding Fender.
So you need to figure out the year of production for your Fender guitar or bass. You’re not alone. Fenders rank as the most frequently bought and sold instruments on Reverb , and finding a precise date of manufacture can be key to determining the value and specifics of an instrument. The most important thing to keep in mind when dating a Fender is the highly modular nature of the designs. Like Henry Ford, part of Leo Fender’s genius was in optimizing the company’s production efficiency.
His guitars were built en masse by an entire factory, not a single luthier toiling over one instrument at a time. Features like bolt-on necks and pickups wired into the pickguard all helped the Fender factory churn out guitar after guitar, day after day. This also means that various parts used on a particular guitar may have come from different points in time, so no single number can absolutely define when the instrument was built.
Instead, the best approach to dating a Fender is to combine indicators from the design of the instrument, the dates found on the neck and body, along with the serial number. Once you have the information you need, if you’re interested in selling your Fender, you can use Reverb to get it in front of the largest audience of musicians in the world by clicking on this link. Perhaps the best place to start when dating your Fender is to get an approximate idea of the era based on the instrument’s design and components.
This can be a tall order for someone less versed in guitar history, but we do have some resources here on Reverb to help you out. For starters, there’s the Reverb Price Guide which has thousands of entries with pictures and details on various guitars and other gear. Some browsing around the Fender section of the Price Guide can definitely help you find which model you have.
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Non e’ questo il caso delle chitarre Fender fabbricate in Estremo Oriente, che possono avere entrambe le configurazioni. BASS e J. BASS hanno la giusta spaziatura ampia al dodicesimo tasto stile , mentre le corrispondenti versioni USA hanno i pallini a spaziatura stretta I differenti schemi di numerazione ed i sistemi usati alla Fender dal riassunti anno per anno si applicano solo alle chitarre e bassi elettrici fabbricati in USA quelli veri!
I modelli Fender e Squire costruiti in Giappone e Corea NON sono inclusi nella tabella di datazione, anche se possono avere schemi di numerazione simili. In effetti, a meno che non sia stata manipolata disonestamente, una Fender giapponese dovrebbe avere una piccola scritta adesiva ‘made in Japan’, o sulla paletta o sul retro del manico, vicino all’attaccatura del manico al body. Naturally, all Fender guitars were made in the USA until the Japanese models of late , but if you bought a , or model Strat it was possible to get one with these pickguard electronic assembles from Mexico.
They still had CTS company pots and are no different with respect to sound. The only way to tell is from the very small “MEXICO” stamped on the pot most likely a legal requirement to indicate origin of assembly. After ’74, the Mexico assembly of electronics ended. Also, not all pickguards during this period were done in Mexico, many more were assembled in California. L’ampiezza del manico, ad es.
All’inizio degli anni ’80, numerosi eventi stavano spingendo la Fender a produrre una linea di strumenti a basso costo. Prima di tutto, la CBS aveva svenduto alla nuova amministrazione il marchio senza gli stabilimenti in California. Questo significava che ci sarebbe stato un forte rallentamento nella produzione prima che i nuovi piani di manifattura fossero pronti ed operativi.
Dating Fender Lap Steel 6. Posted 6 Jun am. Posted 6 Jun pm. Posted 11 Jun pm.
Around Fender started using CTS pots. Look for this number: It’s a code for Stratocaster pots. Any vintage strat pot must have
Copyright Kit Rae. The pots are what the knobs are mounted to, essentally manually adjustable resisitors that control the voltage across a circuit. The codes were created by the Electronic Industries Association EIA in s to identify the product source and date of manufacture. The first string of numbers is usually the part number, or sometimes the pot value. In the second string of numbers, the first three numbers are a code identifying the manufacturer.
The next two numbers after the manufacturer number are the year, and the last two numbers are the week of the year the pots were made. So a pot stamped is a CTS pot made in the 33rd week of Note that this does not mean a Muff with a pot was actually made in , it just means it was not made much earlier than The Muff could have been made months or even years after the pots were purchased as it is known that Electro-Harmonix bought the pots in bulk, as did Fender, and other companies at the time.
Stackpole and CTS made the pots in large runs also, so they may have shipped pots dated earlier than the year Electro-Harmonix ordered them. This just gives you a ball-park age for the Muff.